Koh Chang, Trat Thailand - Travel Tips

Wrestling my moped up the island's steep windy roads has left me aching and saddle sore, but I have to smile at the plastic buckets of water which kindly villagers have left at the trunks of two beautifully carved stone elephants. The pair guards a traditionally styled Chinese temple, which dwarfs even these shoulder-high beasts. Looking down from our viewpoint, past the temple, we can just make out Had Sae Cow, the islands most popular beach with it's fringe of coconut trees providing welcome shade. Earlier, swimming in its shallow warm waters, we glanced inland over the white sand and palms, and up, at a spectacular back drop of rugged mountains that, thickly glad in green jungle, make up most of the island's interior.

This is Ko Chang island one of a cluster of national park islands within easy distance of Bangkok. Offering a range of accommodation from comfortable bungalows to more expensive resorts, the east coast is strewn with beautiful palm lined white sand beaches, with names such as Pineapple beach, Coconut beach and Lonely beach summing up the laid back atmosphere. From the quite and the peaceful to the loud and the funky, one thing that all the beaches and accompanying accommodation do have in common, are their close proximity to the jungle, just a road and a few yards away. On my last visit I witnessed some kind of python, three meters long, at least to my awed eyes, which had lost its way and found itself sunbathing next to a group of somewhat alarmed but curious Swedes. Quite fascinating until one of the restaurant owners sauntered down and battered it to death with a piece of two by four….Indeed the dense tropical evergreen, which makes up most of Koh Chang supports over 42 species of reptiles and amphibians. Some of the most common being Pythons, Cobras, Malayan mud Turtles and Water Monitor Lizards (no need to learn this ones Thai name as it's bizarrely just about the worst thing you can call someone in Thailand). There are also over 60 different species birds including the Pacific reef-egret and the Oriental Pied Horn Bill.

The most popular, and arguably the most beautiful beach, is Hat Sai Cow, White Sands Beach, long with warm shallow and amazingly clear water. The main hub of tourist activity, it has pretty much everything you might need; general stores, motorcycle hire, a small medical clinic, internet cafes, book stores and a range of restaurants serving both Thai and western cuisine. Particularly recommended is . Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on your point of view, accommodation tends towards the cheap and cheerful rather than the luxurious along this stretch of beach and a funky fun atmosphere prevails.

If your looking for somewhere more peaceful but close to all that White Sands has to offer simply walk along the beach (right as you face the sea) until you reach a small out-cropping of rocks with a restaurant perched on top. Crossing these rocks via a small path brings you to as lovely a stretch of beach as you could hope to find where palms and coconut trees stretch down to the tide mark. Some of the credit for the serene, peaceful atmosphere must go to the sole bungalow operation, White Sands Resort which offers a range of accommodation at very reasonable prices. A clean, smart bungalow facing the sea with en-suite bathroom goes for as little as 500 baht.

As nice as White Sands Resort may be, if your looking for something with a bit more class, then move up the coast to Klong Prao Resort which, as well as the usual beautiful beach, brags a fresh water lagoon teeming with fish. Prices range from 1800 to 2200 Baht including breakfast and all rooms come with air-con, cable TV and a refrigerator.

Koh Chang Resort is just a bit further on up the coast, and particularly nicely landscaped. Rooms go for about the same price as Klong Prao Resort with much the same amenities.

Coconut Resort offers an unusually calm sea with an unique view of three of the other national park islands in the distance. Standard Bungalows go from 600 Baht while the added luxury of air con pushes the price up to 1500 a single and 1800 a double. Mobile no.(01) 9266703

Things To Do And See
Koh Chang boasts three waterfalls and any one of these is worth a visit, not just for waterfall itself, but in order to see a bit more of the island than the few square meters of sand that you may quickly come to regard as home. Hiring a Motorcycle lets you stop at your leisure to admire the view at any one of the high peaks, wander round the Chinese temple or simply rest up at a small village shop for a coke and some Gai Yang (grilled chicken). If driving a bike is not your thing, and the majority of the road which circles the island is untarmaced, then your resort or guesthouse can arrange trips to the falls along with the opportunity to do some snorkeling or scuba diving at any of the islands coral reefs. For the truly adventurous they'll even point you in the right direction for a jungle walk but remember not to, as I believe the quote goes, stray from the path. It really is a jungle out there and as mentioned before creepy crawlies abound.

Getting There
Getting to the island really couldn't be easier, and traveling overnight means you can be lying on the beach just after dawn. Ekamai Bus station is just 2 minutes walk from the sky train station of the same name and the bus to Trat leaves at 11.30pm. A ticket for one is about 80 baht and you'll find yourself in Trat by about 4.30. As soon as you get of the bus you can step onto one of the many Songthaews (small open sided vans) which are waiting to take you to the port, about a 30 minute journey. At the port there's just enough time to buy a boat ticket (blue flag tours seem the most efficient and reliable from my experience), have a bite of breakfast, and then, sailor-like, board your boat to Koh Chang, a 40 minute trip. To get back to the city, simply reverse your steps. Boats leave for the mainland every hour.
=====================================================
Related Ko Chang Links:
Ko Chang Information
Funky Hut Guesthouse
=====================================================

*This article first appeared in Frequent Traveller

Copyright Notice: All content and photos in this article are owned by the author. For reprints, please contact Joel. Click Here